I was recently invited to participate in a roundtable discussion on ethical fashion. Very quickly, I realized that the whole discussion revolved around textiles. It's easy to forget that Fashion is also accessories and jewelry. The share of jewelry represented 7.3% of the fashion market in 2018, so its impact is not negligible.
Indeed, there is little accessible information on the environmental impact of jewelry and absolutely nothing or almost nothing regarding costume jewelry, yet not insignificant when we know that the costume jewelry market is worth 283 million euros each year in France. , or nearly 70% of jewelry sales.
I tried to see it a little more clearly, to help you understand why the BLISS approach is undertaken and to help you exercise your critical thinking, knowing what this object brings you versus what it represents, costs, or generates.
The vagueness around Costume Jewelry
Costume jewelry is a fairly vague category, which includes all non-jewelry productions, ranging from luxury brand jewelry in silver metal to colorful bracelets from fast fashion brands. Mostly made of plastic, they are flimsy, quickly out of fashion, and sometimes toxic for the environment and for human health (risk of allergies, skin irritations, etc.), so they generally end up in the trash without being recycled. .
And when they are made of metal, it is not much better, but for other reasons... Brass in particular, which is found in the majority of costume metal jewelry, is an alloy of copper and zinc, two particularly polluting metals to extract. Their exploitation contributes to excessive erosion (which ends up clogging rivers and killing the fauna and flora present in the area) and greatly contaminates nearby waterways by releasing chemicals and sulfuric acid necessary for metal extraction. Most metals, including copper, do not break down in the environment and can be assimilated by plants and animals that ingest them.
An investigation carried out in 2016 by the DGCCRF (Directorate General for Competition, Consumer Affairs and Fraud Prevention) revealed that almost a third of samples taken from costume jewelry in France contained heavy metals beyond the limits. The levels of lead, cadmium and nickel could notably exceed the requirements by a large margin.
And behind the glam of Jewelry?
Although it is easy to ignore, the jewelry sector is, along with that of fashion, one of the most polluting there is. Gold extraction has a strong environmental impact: extracting 3 grams of gold to make a ring requires 1,500 liters of water and 100 grams of cyanide, the components of which are then found in soils and waterways. Not to mention deforestation, caused in part by logging installations without official authorization. Diamonds, too, represent a coveted but polluting wealth. On average, it is estimated that 160kg of CO2 is emitted per carat of cut diamond. That's as much as the environmental impact of 2.5 smartphones! Even the production of synthetic diamonds, which one might believe to be more virtuous, generates high CO2 emissions.
In addition to being catastrophic for the planet, the conditions of extraction of raw materials are also worrying in terms of human rights. The working conditions of miners are generally catastrophic (paltry pay, exploitation, high health risks, non-existent social protection, etc.). According to UNICEF, in the mining town of Bakwa Tshimuna, in the Democratic Republic of Congo, nearly 4 out of 10 children aged 5 to 14 work in the mines, despite Congolese law which does not authorize the work only from 16 years old. These children work to provide additional income and help their families, dropping out of school. However, for their work, these children only earn on average two dollars per day.
The Fairmined label was created in 2004 and certifies the provenance of gold produced by autonomous, responsible, artisanal and small-scale mines. It guarantees a fair price for minerals, a financial incentive to cover the costs of responsible mining, investment in social development and environmental protection. The label also prohibits the use of child labor in mines, reduces or even prohibits the use of mercury-type chemicals.
So, if the vast majority of jewelry is no longer used, why continue to produce so many new pieces?
Accumulated wealth, transmitted from one generation to another, most people do not wish to part with it and second-hand jewelry would therefore only represent 3% of the new market, compared to 40 to 50% for the watches.
Although it is ecologically important, the idea is not to prohibit contemporary jewelry, but to include it in a responsible approach. It is of course necessary to continue to create and innovate. We need to continue dreaming through jewelry. But can we not think that the market could maintain its dynamism by being more virtuous? Couldn’t circularity also generate returns? By focusing, for example, on the transformation, renovation or resizing of old jewelry, and thus allowing the creation of jewelry pieces from non-toxic materials, preferably natural and/or from recycled components. , all designed through a transparent production chain by workers who are fairly paid and whose fundamental rights are respected. The Responsible Jewelery Council has been providing interesting and concrete solutions since 2015, and many jewelry houses have already integrated this philosophy.
More than ever, the future of jewelry must be circular and responsible. The BLISS approach is fully in line with this logic and eco-design has always been a priority in my work. Upcycling is a 3rd alternative, at the intersection of responsible jewelry and second hand.
One thing is certain, we will always want jewelry, so we might as well adapt our philosophy to keep it creative and brilliant.
Documentary sources: Alternativeseconomiques, Fairmined, Responsible Jewellry Council, FashionNetWork, Challenges...